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Jor-el Espina Debuts New Collection for Artefino 2025 Inspired by Patis Tesoro
Fashion designer Jor-el Espina debuts a 30-piece collection, Heirloom, exclusively in ArteFino 2025. This collection was inspired by legendary designer and traditional Filipino design advocate Patis Tesoro, and mixes her heritage-minded techniques with his modern sensibilities to create a wholly unique tribute for the celebrated designer.
The collection of clothes contain a rich variety of garments with unique designs that mixes Espina and Tesoro’s aesthetics, from “peacoats, parkas, skirts, drop waist dresses, cover ups, kimonos, and piña tops.” All of the works were designed by Espina before showing Tesoro the works and workshopping together ways to improve the collection.
“Her blessing, guidance, feedback, and advice were integral to this collection,” Espina said. “I was eager to learn, and Patis was generous with her knowledge. I wanted to make sure that every single garment reflected her essence. More than a collaboration, this is a tribute; my way of honoring Patis Tesoro.”
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Bridging the Generational Gap
Jor-el Espina had first come into contact with Tesoro through the organizers of ArteFino, who invited him to come to Laguna to visit the legendary designer in 2024. As one of the “rising stars of Philippine contemporary design,” the ArteFino organizers believed that Espina would be ready for mentorship with one of the great icons of Philippine fashion.
“I’ve followed the work and journey of Patis closely, and often find similarities in our design sensibilities,” Espina elaborated. “We both like to combine rich details whether it be through vibrant colors, patchwork, embroidery, or beadwork. In that sense, I can say that this is something very familiar to me. It almost feels like home.”
Over the course of multiple visits, the idea of a tribute exhibition came to place. Espina and Tesoro shared ideas over conversations about Philippine craft, bonding over their love of the Filipiniana.
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Tesoro is a traditionalist who has worked to preserve Filipino techniques such as weaving, needlepoint, and embroidery. During Espina’s visits, he would spend time in her workshop and immerse himself in the working methods of Tesoro and her artisans, which he felt allowed him to refine his craftsmanship more.
“It was so enriching to watch the artisans in her shop bring her designs to life,” he said. “During these visits, I really began to value the work that Patis has done to preserve our traditions of craft.”
Past Knowledge, Modern Use
Inspired by what he saw in Tesoro’s workshop, Jor-el Espina began to work on the tribute collection Heirloom. His approach was to utilize the design hallmarks that Patis Tesoro showed him, but in a modernized style, bringing the ideas forward to our contemporary era.
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“I drew inspiration from classic silhouettes like the terno, balintawak, and baro’t saya, but interpreted them with a modern sensibility: cleaner lines, fluid forms, and contemporary proportion,” Espina shared.
Even with his more modern preferences, Espina had taken to using traditional textiles for Heirloom—a way of linking back his modern sensibilities to the ideas of the past.
“For materials, we focused on native weaves and traditional textiles: piña, jusi, handwoven inabel, and vintage lace, many of which came from Patis’ own archive,” he added. “These materials carry so much history and emotion, and using them was our way of honoring the hands and stories behind every thread.”
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In effect, many of the works in Heirloom are brightly-colored, popping with vivid renditions of red, violet, green, and silver fabrics. Each piece has hand-embroidered designs done through “patchwork, embroidery, and hand painting.” These utilize intricate floral patterns and shapes that work with the intensity of the material, creating a modern twist on some of these traditional ideas.
Espina takes inspiration not just from Philippine heritage, but from Asia as a whole, with the kimonos and jackets within the collection mixing Oriental touchstones with Filipino sensibilities, creating wholly unique final products.
“In my design process, I would ask myself: what would it be like to enter the world of Patis?” he said. “It was as I was working with these details that I really pushed the limits with adding these details.”
‘A Creative Challenge’
The tribute to Patis Tesoro was more collaborative in nature than a tribute typically is. To ensure that it did reflect the spirit of her works, Jor-el Espina would work on the clothes and then bring them back to Tesoro’s workshop in Laguna to critique and comment on.
Espina described the efforts as “an honor and a creative challenge,” as he worked to really reflect the spirit of Tesoro within the details of the work.
“At times, we clashed: her love for maximal detail and my preference for restraint would collide,” he said. “But that tension brought out the best in both of us. We found a beautiful balance where tradition met experimentation.”
Overall, Espina felt that the challenge was overcome by the themes and ideas that the collection was trying to say about Filipino design. “There was mutual respect, and a shared goal: to tell a story that celebrates the evolution of Filipino fashion,” he said. “Our dialogue—both creative and personal—was essential in shaping pieces that are both nostalgic and forward-thinking.”
Heritage as An Evolving Form
Patis Tesoro continues to be a respected symbol of the preservation of heritage and craft in the Philippine design sphere. Espina hopes that the Heirloom collection, which merges both of their sensibilities, will show audiences and fashion lovers around the world that Filipino heritage is not stuck in the past; rather, that it can evolve with the needs and methodologies of today.
“We wanted to express that Filipino fashion is not static; it is a living, breathing force that can evolve while staying rooted in who we are,” Espina explained.
“By combining Patis Tesoro’s devotion to heritage with my contemporary vision, we are saying that tradition can be reimagined, and that there is power in honoring the past while boldly stepping into the future. It’s a love letter to our culture, our artisans, and to every Filipino who continues to define identity through dress.”
Heirloom showed at the ArteFino Fair 2025 at the Fifth at Rockwell from July 31 to August 3.
Photos provided by the designer.
Related reading: Jor-El Espina’s Beautiful Costumes for Ballet Philippines’ ‘Ang Panaginip’
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